The Leather Tanneries of Fez, Morocco
The
city of Fez - Morocco's third largest city – was founded in the 8th century and
is now home to over one million people. The city has a distinct traditional
character, especially the old town or the medina called Fes el-Bali, that has
hardly changed for centuries. Located behind a high wall, the medina has
narrow, car-free alleys where hundreds of merchants and craftsmen sell a range
of products such as dates, fish, spices, copper urns, carpets and musical
instruments. Fez is also famous for its leather products and most of it comes
from the leather bazaar (souq). The souq is home to three ancient leather
tanneries, the largest and oldest being the Chouara Tannery, which is almost a
thousand years old.
Fez’s
tanneries are composed of numerous stone vessels filled with a vast range of
dyes and various liquids spread out like a tray of watercolors. Dozens of men,
many standing waist deep in dyes, work under the hot sun tending to the hides
that remain soaked in the vessels. The tanneries processes the hides of cows,
sheep, goats and camels, turning them into high quality leather products such
as bags, coats, shoes, and slippers. This is all achieved manually, without the
need for modern machinery, and the process has barely changed since medieval
times, which makes these tanneries absolutely fascinating to visit.
At the
Chouara Tannery, hides are first soaked in a mixture of cow urine, quicklime,
water, and salt. This caustic mixture helps to break down the tough leather,
loosen excess fat, flesh, and hair that remain on them. The hides are soaked
for two to three days after which tanners scrap away excess hair fibers and fat
in order to prepare the hides for dyeing. The hides are then soaked in another
set of vats containing a mixture of water and pigeon poop. Pigeon poop contains
ammonia that acts as softening agents that allows the hides to become malleable
so they can absorb the dye. The tanner uses his bare feet to knead the hides
for up to three hours to achieve the desired softness.
The
hides are then placed in dying pits containing natural vegetable dyes, such as
poppy flower (red), indigo (blue), henna (orange), cedar wood (brown), mint
(green), and saffron (yellow). Other materials used for dyeing include
pomegranate powder, which is rubbed on the hides to turn them yellow, and olive
oil, which will make them shiny.
One
the leather is died it is taken out to dry under the sun. The finished leather
is then sold to other craftsmen who make the famous Moroccan slippers, known as
babouches, as well as wallets, handbags, furniture and other leather
accessories. Many of these products make their way into the European markets.
The
best views of the tanneries can be obtained from the surrounding terraces where
the leather shops are located. Just visit one of the shops and ask for a tour,
and the salesperson will give you the rundown on how the hides are treated and
what dyes come from what plants. The pigeon poop and cow urine produces a
stench so pungent that the tour guide will often supply sprigs of fresh mint to
visitors to help them overcome the odor.
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